There’s a funny act on racism by Russell Peters in which he describes
a situation he experienced in China caused by how Mandarin-speakers throw
around the filler word “nigga,” much like “um” and “you know.” What is a
harmless word that only means “that one,” sounded like the racist term to an
English-speaking African woman. The act is a simple story of cultural
misunderstanding and a language barrier. I have had my share of run-ins with
racism in the diverse land of the US but, my growing interest in reading on
the racist experiences of people of color in a darker nation not their own, as
well as reflecting on my own experiences living in China, have given me a whole
new understanding of the term, racism.
Two weeks ago in Delhi, the capital of the “largest
democracy in the world,” four
African women, two Ugandan and two Nigerian, were arrested and drug tested under
suspicion of drug peddling and prostitution. In response, a vigilante mob
marched through the streets and raided homes of other African residents
claiming they were involved in the illegal work too. Eventually, the drug tests
turned out negative and no other evidence could support the charges, so they
were released. Just today, a
Hong Kong woman was arrested for abusing her Bangladeshi maid. This past
September, another
Hong Kong woman was arrested for physically and psychologically torturing
her Indonesian maid, who was beat so badly that she was forced to return home
for no longer being able to work. The images of her injuries are horrifying and
caused migrant domestic
workers to march the streets of the city, demanding for justice and greater
rights. These cases of racism are just a few of many in our globalized world.
In contrast, most Americans believe in a black-white or a
white-person of color dichotomy when it comes to racism. The truth is, racism
exists between races, both in subtle and violent forms. I am reminded of when
an older African American teacher told me I hadn’t been here (meaning, the US)
long enough because I did not think reinstating the death penalty in NJ was a
pressing issue for our students to study. That was during a meeting where I
said I was born and raised in Jersey City. Once, I took some students out to New York City and as they were shopping for snacks, the Desi shopkeeper scolded them for no apparent reason, thinking they were alone and that I would not say anything. I did, telling her these were good kids. She seemed embarrassed and just became quiet. Our history is filled with countless
cases of racist discrimination and prejudice across racial lines, as it is also
filled with inspiring instances of solidarity between racial groups. This is
evident in the global sphere too. At the same time, Americans are painted as ethnocentric
and ignorant, but living in China, I feel it is safe to say that this is not an
issue isolated to Americans.
While China is ethnically, culturally, and linguistically
diverse, it is fairly homogeneous in that most people here are Chinese. Due to
China’s rapid move towards capitalism, it has opened its doors to the free
market and with it came a growing influx of migrant labor, foreign businessmen,
and English teachers, like myself. Even though most people here mean no real
harm, some people are quite ignorant of others. It’s not justifiable but I
understand why it happens. If it can occur in a land as diverse as the US,
it can happen anywhere, especially a nation like China that has a long history
with foreign occupation and imperialism. No group, however, is viewed as negatively
as the Japanese in China because of their brutal history. Just flip through Chinese
TV shows and pay attention to who is depicted as the antagonist. Still, many
people carry many misconceptions and prejudices towards others too. When
wandering about accompanied by someone who is Chinese, I noticed that strangers ask them if
I am Hindu. Whoever I am with always has to explain that I am Muslim and
Pakistani but from America. For whatever reason, “Hindu” is the term used for
Indian, which could not be any more incorrect. When I am alone, I hear people
talking amongst themselves as I hear “low wai” (foreigner) and “Hindu” spilling
from their tongues. I, however, have never been asked directly if I am Hindu.
Most people just ask me if I am American. My students even told me that they
were surprised when they met me because I didn’t “look American.” When I
first arrived in China, a few teachers on campus did not know I was from the US and commented on how good my English was. (I get that one back home too.)
In my world geography class, some things my students say are just
cringe worthy, but I understand why they think so. It is because of a climate of racism and inexposure
to other races, not out of an innate desire to be racist or xenophobic. It's learned and can be unlearned.
For instance, a student once asked me why Muslims cause so many problems. This perception is certainly shaped by the state-controlled media’s depiction of the Muslim Uighur people in Xinjiang province as “terrorists” due to their clashes with the police.
When I explained to students why it is incorrect to refer to Indians as “Hindu,” they were incredibly receptive and many students said they did not know this. On a visit to a student’s home, my coworker, Rae, and I fell in love with his adorable, brown puppy. He jokingly said it looked Hindu and said something in Cantonese. I asked Rae what he said and she just shook her head. My students now know I am Pakistani and perhaps he felt it was acceptable to bad-mouth Indians in front of me. She continued to talk to the student afterwards and I think she was explaining what he said was wrong.
When I first arrived, the family that owns the grocery store near me used to stare at me with suspicion and confusion, but now they smile and say "ni hao." I am having some important conversations with students and others on race and Islam and I know my presence matters. I don’t know if this is a long-term effect and I know this is not changing the whole of China, but I am glad to at least get some people to even slightly rethink their perceptions.
For instance, a student once asked me why Muslims cause so many problems. This perception is certainly shaped by the state-controlled media’s depiction of the Muslim Uighur people in Xinjiang province as “terrorists” due to their clashes with the police.
When I explained to students why it is incorrect to refer to Indians as “Hindu,” they were incredibly receptive and many students said they did not know this. On a visit to a student’s home, my coworker, Rae, and I fell in love with his adorable, brown puppy. He jokingly said it looked Hindu and said something in Cantonese. I asked Rae what he said and she just shook her head. My students now know I am Pakistani and perhaps he felt it was acceptable to bad-mouth Indians in front of me. She continued to talk to the student afterwards and I think she was explaining what he said was wrong.
When I first arrived, the family that owns the grocery store near me used to stare at me with suspicion and confusion, but now they smile and say "ni hao." I am having some important conversations with students and others on race and Islam and I know my presence matters. I don’t know if this is a long-term effect and I know this is not changing the whole of China, but I am glad to at least get some people to even slightly rethink their perceptions.
Rae once commented that I do not need to worry as a
foreigner, because foreigners are more respected than the Chinese by the
Chinese. In some ways this is true, especially if I am customer or in a meeting
with associates. Luckily, I never experienced systematic or wide-scale racist
discrimination, nor have I faced the human rights violations like the migrant domestic
workers in Hong Kong. No one denies me entrance or service at a restaurant or
store. No one tries to intentionally cause me physical harm because of my foreignness
(but they will overcharge me at any opportunity). In the small city I live in, people
stare sometimes out of curiosity. Sometimes it makes
me feel uneasy, but I try to smile back, especially at children. When men
stare, as in the US, I either ignore it or give a deadpan look back to make
them feel uncomfortable too. Pay it forward, I guess.
What I feel here is not racism in the usual, American sense. It is not a hatred towards me, like I hear many Africans in China face. I came here expecting I would be treated differently, but I have had several incidents in which I felt unprepared for, very vulnerable, and like a complete outsider. Usually this happens when I am alone. I imagine the presence of a Chinese person grants me some legitimacy. When I tell my students about them, they are very empathic and say what I already know, that these are instances of bad people and that not all Chinese are bad. My coworker, Rae, seems very uncomfortable talking about them and seems to want to quickly drop the conversations. I don't though; these issues need to be talked about.
What I feel here is not racism in the usual, American sense. It is not a hatred towards me, like I hear many Africans in China face. I came here expecting I would be treated differently, but I have had several incidents in which I felt unprepared for, very vulnerable, and like a complete outsider. Usually this happens when I am alone. I imagine the presence of a Chinese person grants me some legitimacy. When I tell my students about them, they are very empathic and say what I already know, that these are instances of bad people and that not all Chinese are bad. My coworker, Rae, seems very uncomfortable talking about them and seems to want to quickly drop the conversations. I don't though; these issues need to be talked about.
During my first month teaching, I was walking in the crowded
city of Guangzhou when someone threw white liquid on me. I don’t know where it
came from or if it was an accident. I don’t even know if it was dirty water,
milk, or liquid from some food. Many people were around and just stared at me,
as I was embarrassed by drawing so much attention. Of course no one said
anything and after they lost interest at staring, they carried on with whatever
they were doing. At the security-check in a train station, I put my bag on the
conveyer belt for the x-ray scanner while I walked though the metal detector. A
woman behind me threw her suitcase on top of my bag. As I went to get my
bag, I realized I couldn’t because my headphones were caught under her heavy suitcase.
When she too came out, she saw me pulling at my bag unsuccessfully. Immediately, she pulled her luggage off the belt, breaking my headphones, and didn’t bother to look
back. I would like to attribute these instances to a general lack of regard for
strangers, but I cannot help but think my foreignness had a lot to do with
people’s reaction or a lack there of.
The worst incident was several days ago. I was walking
around in Guangzhou in the evening near the Xiaobei subway station. This is an
area where there are many Muslim foreigners shopping, eating, and doing
business. As I walked through the busy plaza near the station, I passed several
street food venders, people selling toys and phone accessories, and Hui people selling hats and hijabs. I suddenly felt a weight on my bag and turned
around to a man standing behind me trying to dig his hand into my purse. I felt
hurt and violated so I started yelling him. Oddly, the man just stood there
with his head down taking my yelling, but for some reason I swung my hand
around from my knees to his face... hard. I did not expect it when he slapped my face and started to walk away as others stared on, doing absolutely
nothing. My blood was boiling at this point, so I punched the back of his head with
all of my might. I didn’t see anyone’s face but I sure heard people say, “oh”
when my fist met his head. He came towards me and an older, short man stood
between us shaking his head at me. I used body language to explain he was
trying to steal from me and I think he understood as he looked very sternly at
the young man. The man walked away as I tried to maneuver around to him, but I couldn’t, so I gave up trying. I saw him looking back at me as he walked away and I
turned around to head down to the subway. I wept the whole way to my destination.
Of course, people stared on the packed train, but did absolutely nothing.
I have replayed the incident in my head what feels like a
million times now, and I have come up with several conclusions.
1. I knew pickpockets
target foreigners, but I did not think it would happen to me. Now I know to be
on my guard.
2. No matter what other people say, I don’t think I should
have slapped the guy. It only escalated the situation, but I am proud to know
that I have the courage to defend myself if I need to.
3. It was my older sister's copy of The Karma of Brown Folk by Vijay Prashad that prevented the man from successfully mugging me. My bag was small and it was packed tightly because of it. (Thanks baji!)
4. I am 110% sure
the man slapped me because a woman showed him out and maybe it was only
acceptable in his mind because I was brown. I don’t know the man, but I don’t
think he would have hit me had I been Chinese or white.
5. I am certain
people saw a Chinese man reaching his greasy fingers into my bag but chose to stay silent. It was way too busy for no one not to see it.
6. Finally, I believe no one
immediately helped me mostly because I was a foreigner. I was more hurt by
other people’s lack of regard for me during and after the incident, than the
thief’s actions. What is wrong with people? Is this an example of the culture
of “saving face” I hear about in China? Is it similar to the belief in
Newark that “snitches get stiches?” Is it a product of the systematic oppression
the Chinese people face under their totalitarian government or a product of the
Cultural Revolution in which people were executed for being outspoken critics
of the government? If by the very unlikely chance no one saw him trying to steal from me,
why did no one show any regard for me afterwards? I don’t think it was just one reason. Some cared enough to try not
to look too obvious that they were staring when I walked away. My guess is it is mainly an example of the
bystander effect, due to a diffusion of responsibility, a fear of standing out,
or perhaps confusion. (but how can you confuse a man slapping a woman?) The old
man stood up to make sure no one was hit, but why did no one try to grab the
man and hold him accountable? He tried stealing from me and then hit me! Regardless,
I am sure my foreignness had much to do with their lack of action and concern.
This is probably the greatest example of racism or
xenophobia I have ever experienced and it was at the hands of other folks of
color. It has given me much to think about on the concept of racism, which in
America is associated with white supremacy or even the absurd concept of
reverse racism. I had plenty of experiences in the U.S. where I felt like an “outsider”
by whites, POCs, and other South Asians. My look and accent confuse people wherever
I am, and Americans also ask me some ignorant questions, but nothing has made
me feel like an outsider as extremely as the last few months. Still, I honestly
encourage other people to travel to places like China. It will enlighten your
understanding of concepts like race and racism if you open your eyes to it. Hopefully, this was the worst of it but I look forward to learning and reading more on it as well as thinking about what can be done about it.
By the way, my next post will be in Pakistan. I leave tomorrow and cannot wait. I had more issues than I care to write about getting this visa. I basically, told my school they are unprofessional because they are responsible for me having to waste a week of my vacation passportless, and the day I could finally get out of my city, I got bro-slapped! yada, yada, yada. This trip is much needed and a long time coming but I am off!
XOXOX
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